Barcelona

Tuesday, February 11, 2020/Wednesday, February 12, 2020

Life was remarkably calm at our home on Tuesday morning. Jim went out for breakfast with a friend while I had a bit of much-needed sleep and then watch the Ellen Show. Late in the morning, we both tackled our last minute packing and were soon ready to go to the airport. One more errand at the bank and we were set.

Our taxi driver (we always use Waterloo Taxi to and from the airport – reasonably prices, efficient and reliable) had transported us before and was able to tell us quite a bit about ourselves. His memory was somewhat uncanny and very accurate. It was an interesting rode to say the least.

Upon arrival at the airport, we experienced a very smooth check-in and security check. We even had ample time to have lunch in the British Airways lounge. And then, it was up, up and away. We were off on our next adventure.

Happily, both Jim and I were able to get some sleep on the plane. This always makes the flight seem shorter and the fatigue less debilitating. Once in London, we again proceeded to the British Airways lounge and had a very nice breakfast before boarding our flight to Barcelona. We landed in Barcelona ahead of schedule and were whisked quickly through immigration and luggage collection to a waiting taxi. In less than an hour after landing, we were comfortably installed in our room at the Axel Hotel near the centre of Barcelona. This will be our base for the next 8 days.

Although we left home just after noon on Tuesday, it was noon on Wednesday by the time we reached our destination. Jetlag was merciless and I almost immediately fell asleep. There was no way to fight it even though I knew that sleeping so early in the day might impede my ability to overcome the fatigue I was feeling. A couple of hours later I awakened, feeling somewhat better but still tired to the bone. Jim went out and found some fresh fruit and a couple of simple sandwiches for our dinner. Otherwise, we were both content to remain in the room.

Thursday, February 13, 2020

After a good night’s sleep, we arose, prepared to face the day. It was bright and sunny, about 15C. A beautiful day to be outside – no boots, no winter clothing, and not even a jacket. We chose a sheltered café and sat outside for a rather late breakfast. It was a wonderful way to begin our journey through Barcelona.

We wandered the immediate neighbourhood and discovered several other cafes and restaurants. We spent some time on the roof top terrace at our hotel, plotting our plans and itinerary for the next several days. 

In due course, fatigue once again set in and I headed inside for a short nap. (I think Jim may have had one as well.)

Again refreshed, we headed out into the city. Our first experience was to discover how to get a taxi. Of course, technology is involved and now Jim has two apps on his phone that will enable us to order a taxi anywhere in Barcelona. After successfully loading the apps, we discovered there is a taxi stand right outside our hotel with two cabs available at that time. So much for using an app!!

We were off to see La Pedrera, a building designed and built by architect Antoni Gaudi. It is an ostentatious, unconventional, large, rough-hewn building and certainly stands out on the landscape, both because of its size but also because of its unique façade. It is eight stories high and does not have a single load-bearing wall within it. It is designed so that giant cornerstone pillars hold it up with lots of windows and courtyards so that the building is flooded with light. It was built between 1906 and 1912 as a private residence. The owners planned to live on the main floor and rent out the additional apartments in the building. The attic and the roof with many unusual statues exceeded the municipal bylaw limits and should have been torn down. Some negotiating and compensation occurred and the building remains as it was designed. This was the last private residence that Gaudi designed and built. Now the building is a draw for tourists with a well written audio tour that takes one to the roof, the attic, the private apartment, the courtyard and, finally, the gift shop. After the completion of this project, Gaudi’s focus was then placed upon La Sagrada Familia. More about that later.

A lovely cappuccino in an outdoor café punctuated the end of our Gaudi tour. It was a delight to again sit outside and watch the multitude of tourists who passed by. The only thing we had to think about was what to do next. What luxury.

Since we had not had lunch, we decided that this would be a good time to have some dinner. We know that it is customary in Barcelona to eat dinner after 8 o’clock but we did not want to wait that long. Friends had recommended a restaurant called El Nationale where several serving areas offer different menus. And we knew it was open throughout the day and evening. (Many restaurants do not open for dinner until 8 pm.)  So we proceeded to El Nationale. What a find!!!

Inside the enormous restaurant were at least 6 smaller restaurants as well as 3 large bars, each with their own menus and specialties. It took us a while to choose what and where we wanted to eat. Happily, all six restaurants had menus posted so we were able to peruse the offerings and make a decision. Tonight would be a fish night featuring Catalonian recipes. We were served complimentary regional olives preceding our appetizer of local anchovies in a tasty olive oil mixture, served with herbed toast for dipping. We then ordered a main course to share – San Sebastian style wild croaker with a garnished baked potato. The fish was delicious, well prepared with a healthy sprinkling of garlic to season. And the potato was also beautifully presented and flavoured … in 5 small slices. Did I also mention that the croaker was split into two portion each of which could have been two or three bites? Was it really a main?? Of course, we were still hungry so we went back to the menu, first ordering two glasses of white wine as well as some deep-fried calamari. The calamari was garnished with some pork crackling which added a saltiness to the dish. The calamari was also nicely prepared and well flavoured. But an equally small portion … We felt satisfied but certainly not full.

We left the restaurant feeling that we would come back again and eat in another section offering tapas. In spite of the portion sizes it was a lively place to spend an evening. When we arrived about 6 pm, the place was empty. When we left at 8, it was hopping!!

We flagged a taxi to return to our hotel where we enjoyed some of the fruit Jim had purchased yesterday. We are now nicely settled in for the night. Jim is planning our day tomorrow and I am obviously writing the first entry in our current blog.

Soon it will be time to sleep again, hopefully all night Spanish time.

Friday, February 14, 2020

Happy Valentine’s Day, everyone.

We set the alarm for this morning so that we could get off to an early start. We had a lovely European breakfast in our hotel and hit the streets about 8:45. Our first goal was to be at the Hop On Hop Off bus stop for its first run of the day – the Red Route. We were number 3 and 4 on the bus and managed to get the front seats on the upper deck. I have to admit it was a bit nippy up there as the day was cooler and more humid than yesterday. But the view was delightful; the near misses on the road exciting; and the photo opps brilliant. What great seats!!

The Red Route took us through the centre of the city, passing by many architectural wonders, historic sites, many museums and long retail avenues. We got a great overview of the city and the taped commentary was excellent and the headset system was in fine working order. Barcelona is a great city, complemented by so many examples of interesting, beautiful and unique architecture. Even the new buildings that are going up tip their hats to the architectural history in the city and find ways of integrating some of the features into the new structures.

We passed by the Pedrera again (we had seen it yesterday); we visited two university sites; we saw several churches with high turrets; we visited the Barcelona Olympic site which is still widely in use; we travelled down along the port, now crowded with freighters, cruise ships and privately own yachts and sailboats. Quite an array, mostly tied up for the winter.

The core of Barcelona is a combination of residential and commercial buildings. Retail shops, cafes and restaurants and other assorted businesses tend to occupy the main floor of a building, topped by six or seven additional floors that are residential apartments. The Spanish style (my term) predominates. Each apartment has a narrow balcony that overlooks the street, often shuttered, so narrow that it can only hold two tiny chairs or a few plants and has a very elaborate and ornate railing. Most exotic buildings are rich in colour and may have a floral motif on the walls. All in all it is a beautiful city.

One feature that we have admired is the structure of many intersections. Instead of simply coming to a right angle when streets cross one another, many intersections are built in diamond shape with a small park or fountain or statue in the middle. 

This seems to open the intersection up somewhat and there are many small businesses that occupy space along each edge of the roadway. Lots of cafes, fruit and veg shops, bakeries, pharmacies … the list goes on and on … can be found at most main intersections. Traffic signals are used to control the passage of cars, busses, trucks, motorbikes, scooters, bicycles, and yes, pedestrians. The lanes are very narrow and there are a lot of near misses, or so it appeared to us. On some streets, there is only one lane for cars, a lane set aside for parked cars, another lane for parked motorbikes, as well as a narrow lane for bicycles and scooters. This is only possible in a city that gets no snow!!

After about two hours, we arrived back at the Placa Catalunya where we had begun. Sadly, Jim has developed a tooth ache so we spent much of the afternoon chasing down treatment for him. The discomfort is under control but he still needs to see the dentist again tomorrow. We feel fortunate that we are spending several days here so that he can get it truly looked after. As well, we have been in touch with our travel insurance company as well as our mastercard insurance and all is well in the world of coverage. The local IAMAT office was very helpful in identifying a dental clinic that could provide treatment and that spoke English. (If you travel and you are not familiar with IAMAT, they are an excellent source of local medical staff who speak English and will treat whatever ailment befalls you. Check them out at IAMAT.org).

Once Jim had seen the dentist, we headed back to Placa Catalunya to board the Blue Route of the Hop On Hop Off bus. This route took us in a totally different direction up into the hills that flank Barcelona. It is known as the ‘high’ area, describing both the height above sea level as well as the lifestyle that is maintained by many of the people who live in this area. The apartment buildings still rose into the air with balconies galore but the style and quality of the buildings and the apparent size of the apartments was quite different than in city centre. As well, the shops were more specialized and the people on the street were clearly more affluent, driving high end vehicles, picking up children from a myriad of private schools, and clothed more elegantly than others we have seen.

Had it not been for the fog, the views would have been lovely. Our tickets are still valid tomorrow so we may try again. A highlight of this tour was seeing the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, another creation of Gaudi. The construction of this cathedral began in the 1882 and the building is still not finished. Two cranes rise above the spires that are still under construction. Gaudi, who died in 1926, knew that the building would not be complete in his lifetime so he left amazingly detailed plans so the work could proceed. His attitude was that the client had all the time in the world and was not in a big hurry (he was speaking about God). On 7 November 2010, Pope Benedict XVI consecrated the church and proclaimed it a minor basilica.

Gaudi’s designs have a strong connection with nature and, as with La Pedrera, there are many natural features embedded in the design of La Sagrada, flowers, fruits, and grains to name a few. We will take a tour of La Sagrada early next week so you will hear more then. Both La Pedrera and La Sagrada are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The bus whisked us back down the hills and into the centre of the city. We disembarked at a stop not far from our hotel. We were chilled by the damp air and wanted a warm drink. We walked in the direction of our hotel and finally came to the café where we had eaten breakfast on our first morning here. We stopped for drink ... it was late afternoon so coffee transformed into wine. We had a leisurely look at the menu and indulged in two appetizers – ceviche and bravas (potatoes with delightful sauce). We lingered and eventually ordered dinner, a bit early by Spanish standards. Jim had suckling pork with applesauce and I had seafood paella. Another glass of wine and dinner was complete. No dessert for us.

We are settled in for the evening in our usual fashion. Jim is planning the next few days and I am writing the blog and processing photos. We are both very content.

Saturday, February 15, 2020

Well, today did not go as planned. We got up with the alarm and got ready to head out walk along El Rambla, to have lunch at a market, to make arrangements to go to Monserrat tomorrow and then spend the afternoon at La Segrada. Dinner along the pier at one of the many seafood restaurants.

But none of that happened!! Just as we were leaving our room, I made an emergency stop in the washroom … and that determined the rest of the day. I slept most of the day. Jim went to get his tooth repaired (he was very happy with the dental work) and otherwise, stayed close to me as I moaned and groaned with discomfort. Happily, by the time evening came along, I was on the mend and feeling much better and stronger. Hopefully, after a good night’s sleep, tomorrow will be a better day.

So, that’s it for the blog today. Our plans for tomorrow sound a lot like they did this morning. Time will tell.

Sunday,  February 16, 2020

More of the same. Still under the weather. I slept all day long. Jim did bring me a beautiful rose to buoy my feelings. 

By evening, things were looking up a bit and I tried some chicken consommé. That was perhaps the turning point. Monday morning was a new day!!

Monday, February 17, 2020

Happy Flag Day and Family Day in Canada

Up bright and early and feeling quite chipper. And we had a big plan for this day. An early breakfast at the hotel and a day trip to Monserrat (the one we missed on Saturday). We started by taking a taxi to Placa d’Espana where we learned how to use the Barcelona Metro system by taking a train from Placa d’Espana to Ministrol de Montserrat. That was about a 45 minute ride. In Ministrol we transferred to another train, this one part of a rack railway (similar to a cog rail) which began our upward journey to the peak of Montserrat. The rise in elevation was 1000 m so you can imagine how steep and rugged that landscape was. The tracks that had been built were amazing, twisting and turning, through tunnels and rock cuts, all the while heading steadily toward the top at what felt like treacherous angles. We finally reached the village of Montserrat, featuring a beautiful cathedral, an amazing museum and variety of shops and eateries and a hotel for anyone who wanted to stay the night and breath the fresh mountain air.

But we were not yet at the top. One more part of the journey remained ahead of us – a funicular that appeared to go straight up. The only way to look at the track as it climbed the mountain was to tilt your head so far back that you neck hurt. One funicular car going up; another coming down; timed perfectly so they passed one another on the only section of double track along the way. In order to board the car, one had to climb a steep set of stairs as the car was built to match the angle of the track as it climbed or descended the slope. Finally, we were at the very top.

From this place, on this glorious sunny day, we were able to see for miles. A kilometer straight down was where we had started. Everything down there looked like dinky cars. A children’s village with cars and trucks and busses scurrying along the road. Across the vast valley, fields of agricultural land spread before our eyes, intersected with roadways, both major highways and narrow dirt tracks, the brown lines in the distance defining which was which. An occasional small village was in sight. Well, we assume they were small because of the scale from this distance. Perhaps they were bigger than we knew.

We remained at the summit for a short while and then boarded the downward funicular. It is possible to walk down from the top on steep slopes with many steps. It takes about 90 minutes and is a challenging hike. After a comfortable 15 minutes on the funicular, we were where we wanted to be.

We headed toward the cathedral where there was a one o’clock concert by the local boys’ choir who trained and were schooled at the cathedral. We were overwhelmed at the number of people in the cathedral, well over 1000 by anyone’s estimate. The priest opened the event with a prayer and invited to congregation to join in the initial hymn. No one did! We all waited to hear the choir and a quiet awe fell over the sanctuary. They sang another … and then, it began. The concert was to be 15 minutes in length but that was too long for many, many people. Long lines of tourists rose from their seats and streamed to the doors at the back of the sanctuary. Most were respectfully quiet but not all … It was disruptive to the congregation and it was downright rude to the choir. Those poor cherubs sing for a crowd six days a week. What are they learning about audience behaviour? I was appalled.

Now, don’t let me get started about the cameras many were holding high above their heads to record the entire event …. No, I am refraining from saying any more about that!!

Jim and I thoroughly enjoyed the concert and sat quietly in our seats until well after most people had left. It was a joyful and meditative moment for both of us.

Our next stop was lunch. It was included in the ticket we had purchased for the day. I got a table in the cafeteria/restaurant and Jim joined the line of people waiting to get food. It was enormous. I guess everyone else at the concert had the same idea. Maybe that was why so many left early. It was a long time before Jim had collected our food and returned to the table. But the food was very tasty and hit the spot.

After lunch, I headed outside to sit at the railing overlooking the valley. It was just so beautiful. Jim seized the opportunity to go and visit the museum. It was larger than expected and very comprehensive with displays about the history of Montserrat and the artists who lived and worked in this region. Picasso, Gaudi, Degas, Dali and Monet all had original paintings hanging in this museum. Quite an impressive collection!!

And then, it was time to reboard the train … first the rack railway, followed by the subway to the city. 

The journey was completed with a taxi ride to our hotel.  I will admit that after all the fresh air and walking, we both fell asleep on our way back to Barcelona. We brought in sandwiches for dinner and indulged in a gin and tonic. And here I am writing the blog. Any typos are the fault of the gin, to be sure.

Tuesday, February 18, 2020

Today was a full day from top to bottom. Well, top was a little later than anticipated as I slept in quite a bit. We had decided not to set an alarm and I clearly took full advantage of that. Maybe still in the final stages of recovery.

As planned, we enjoyed a late breakfast at La Boqueria Market. What a lively place it was. Rick Steves, in his book about Barcelona, recommended a tiny café, Pinotxo, in the market as a great place to eat. 

Breakfast time was well past by the time we arrived so the proprietor brought out the options for lunch instead. A live lobster wriggling on the plate, some jumbo shrimp complete with shells, and some small octopi. They were mercifully still so we could not determine if they were dead or alive. The other alternative was meat. We chose meat and soon were presented with a delicious bowl of beef stew accompanied by several chunks of fresh crusty bread. It was delicious.

This café has been in the market for over 50 years. The proprietor for this entire time, Juan, is everyone’s friend and willingly poses for a photograph with anyone who asks. The entire space is a narrow corridor in which the cooking and serving occurs. Three staff crowd behind the counter and can barely get passed one another as food gets prepared and served. Juan is responsible for all beverages, alcoholic or otherwise. He makes a mean cappuccino.

After ‘breakfast’, we wandered the aisles, our eyes and noses enlivened by the sights and sounds of this lively place. Most notable were the fresh fruit stalls which offered a wide range of fresh cut vegetables in take-out containers. Alternatively, you could choose almost any kind or combination of juice that one could imagine.

Of course, there were vegetable stands, spice shops, fish vendors galore and olive stands. But to us, the meat vendors were particularly interesting.  Entire legs of pork or beef or lamb were displayed in each stall, complete with the hoof still attached so there could be no mistake about what kind of meat it might be. Each stall had a small but amazing set of slicing knives and the slicers were able to cut the thinnest prosciutto or carpaccio that could be imagined. It is a real art form to be able to do that so beautifully.

We stopped at another café for a taste of crusty toast with salted tomato sauce along with a small dish of olives. Jim added a cappuccino to his order. And then more wandering, this time among the chicken vendors and, of course, the companion egg stalls. More spices, dried fruit and nuts, chocolate shops featuring chocolate-dipped strawberries on a skewer. Olive oil was available in many flavours and displayed in gift packs for tourists to take home.

Soon, we found ourselves at a third café, also fashioned along a long thin corridor with little room to move. But this one had on its menu a potato omelette, something Jim was looking for. It looked delicious and tasted fine but we soon learned there was absolutely no egg in this omelette. It was made solely from cooked potatoes and braised spinach. And salt … always salt. I enjoyed a sangria while Jim worked away at his omelette. Not his favourite food, he discovered.

All too soon, it was time to leave the market and head over to La Sagrada Familia, a large and unusual basilica that had been designed by architect Gaudi in the late 1800’s. Construction was started in 1882 and is continuing today even though Gaudi passed away in 1926. He left models and plans and photographs of how he wanted it to look upon completion. All 21 spires and so much more. The current hope is that it will be totally finished by 2026 which is the 100^th anniversary of Gaudi’s death.

I will admit that when we passed by this basilica on the Hop on Hop Off bus a few days ago and, after we visited La Pedrera the same day, I was prepared to say that the architectural vision of Gaudi was more than a little peculiar. Today, however, we took a lengthy tour with a very knowledgeable guide who helped me to better understand the vision that Gaudi had in all his designs. He wanted his buildings to reflect nature in every way. So, in the basilica, the pillars that rise to the ceilings have taken the design of trees with a wide trunk at the bottom and several branches reaching out at the top to support what is above them. The stained glass windows have been designed to maximize the amount of light that can enter the building and that more light can make its way in at the top than at the bottom because all light comes from above us. The basilica doors are covered with bronze leaves of various colours, reflecting the seasons of the year. And hidden among these leaves are the small creatures of the vines – spiders, bees, geckos, snails … the list goes on. And so our understanding grew …

One of the most amazing sights we saw was in the construction planning area that was visible through a glass panel but off limits to the public. In this area, people were at work on computers, designing facets of the building yet to come; they were creating a scale model of spires that have not yet arisen to be sure that every feature of the spires mirrors Gaudi’s vision. It has been said that in some ways Gaudi was almost able to predict the future because without the modern technology to support the design and construction of the remainder of this project, it is quite possible that it would have been impossible to achieve. While I still think that some of the work that Gaudi has produced supports the use of gaudy as an adjective, I will say that I now have a much better sense of what he was attempting to achieve. Our world is enhanced by the work of visionaries and in the art and architecture facet of our world, Gaudi was certainly that.

Following our tour of La Segrada, we set off to something of a much lighter nature. One of my favourite stores is Desigual. 

While Desigual products are available in some stores in Canada and the USA as well as through online shopping, it is only in European countries where I have had the pleasure of exploring their entire line of merchandise from women and children’s clothing, to outerwear and shoes, to scarves and other accessories, and especially to handbags. Today’s mission was to find a new handbag that would replace my long-loved bag that I have used every day for years. I have even replaced the same bag twice … but the style has sadly been discontinued and it is no longer available. I celebrate great success today as I was able to find a new bag that I will grow to love as I did the old one. It is my first purchase on this trip and I am very happy!!

Hopping into another taxi, we made our way along Las Ramblas. I know it is not the same as strolling along the centre strip for kilometers but, even from the taxi, I was able to get a sense of the vibrancy, the brightness, the variety of shops and restaurants and the energy of the people who were shopping, sipping, looking or simply enjoying the ambience. Jim had a small taste of the walking along while I was under the weather, but this will likely be my only chance to see Las Ramblas in action.

We were on our way to the Picasso Museum. 

Imagine being in a museum where the entire collection was created by one artist, one very famous and prominent and highly regarded artist who has been widely acclaimed for the contribution his work has made the universal world of art. The museum itself is in a very old building, located deep in an array of narrow and historic alleys where no vehicular traffic is allowed. The taxi dropped us off at the entrance to one of these alleys with these instructions, “Go down that passageway and then turn left.” That was it!!

We disembarked from the taxi not exactly sure where we were going to end up but, alas, the throngs of people coming and going made the journey quite simple. We found our way there, got tickets and a great audio tour and off we headed into the hundreds of works of Picasso.

As we moved from frame to frame, from room to room, and listened to the audio, we learned so much about his background, his family, the influence of his father, his success in art competitions, his fascination with faces and ultimately, his love for his second wife, Jacqueline, who face appears in many, many of his paintings. What was disappointing about this museum is that it does not hold any of Picasso’s work from his cubism period so there is a significant gap in following the development of his style through the middle years of his productivity. Nonetheless, it was great to be able to see so many masterpieces all in one place and gain an appreciation of the transitions in style he made over his many years of work. We left the museum as the security guard locked the doors. We did not even have time to go into the gift shop.

It was dark. We were tired and we were hungry. We wanted to eat a nice meal in a nice restaurant tonight. So we consulted with Trip Advisor and found several suggestions of nice restaurants close by. Jim made a reservation at one of them and we noted that there was a button that said ‘Special Offer’ if you reserve online. Jim pressed the button and we found that if our reservation was earlier than 8 pm we would get 50% off our meal. Our reservation was for 7:30. Perfect!! Once again, we flagged a taxi (it is such an easy way to travel in this city … friendly drivers, reasonable metred rates and no tipping) and we were off to the restaurant, Can Reixes in a corner of Placa Reial. We arrived in good time and enjoyed a wonderful meal including appetizers, main and desserts all at a 50% discount. Only our beverages carried a full charge. But the wine was worth the price and the complimentary frangelica that came at the end of the meal was the topper to a lovely evening.

And yet, another taxi. A short trip back to our hotel and the comfort of our very familiar room. We have only one day left in Barcelona. It will be sad to leave this great city.

Wednesday, February 19, 2020

Sadly, this is our last day in Barcelona. We have seen and done so much that, on this absolutely glorious day, we decided to spend as much of it as possible outside. Spaniards may be bundled up in their winter coats but Jim and I were quite comfortable with only a sweater or light jacket. The sky was clear blue … not a cloud in sight.

Our day began with a late breakfast at a nearby café, called The Breakfast and Lunch Café. Jim ordered a cappuccino and a scrambled egg croissant and I chose an avo-egg bagel combo with fresh pineapple garnish and a large fresh-squeezed orange juice. Both were delicious choices. We sat under the umbrellas and shared a table with a young couple from Pennsylvania. It was surprising to hear how little overlap there was in the choices of things to do and see in Barcelona. 

After lingering at our table for quite a while, we headed off to another city square. We had spotted the only Tim Horton’s in Barcelona (there are 11 in Spain) and we needed to go there for a coffee. We sat inside for a while and then realized there were seats out on the sidewalk. It was so much better to be in the sunshine.

Our next stop was a small park adjacent to the café where we had eaten breakfast. Yes, we went full circle early in the day. It was deliberate though because we knew there were parrots in this park and we wanted to watch them as they continued to build a nest high in a palm tree in preparation for a family, we assume. Spring is coming. There were at least six bright green parrots (we have not identified the variety yet) that were flying to and fro and making the noise that only parrots can make. Two of the parrots were quite visible from where we were sitting. We watched them fly into the palm tree and back out again. Each time they arrived they each brought a small branch with them and before our eyes the nest grew bigger and bigger. It was quite a messy affair but clearly sturdy enough for some eggs and chicks.

Other birds graced the area as well: pigeons, of course, and sparrows as well as a small yellow variety that was not willing to rest on any branch long enough to get a good picture. Blurry yellow birds is what we ended up with. Their speed and dexterity was enviable.

Aside from observing birds, our other focus was non-auto/truck transportation. Barcelona is well set up for pedestrians, 4 wheeled vehicles as well as 2-wheeled transport using specified lanes for each category of vehicle as well as designated traffic signals that indicate when it is safe to cross an intersection. Pedestrians have the right-of-way at most crossings and the cars, motorbikes and other wheeled vehicles diligently stop when a pedestrian is moving in the intersection. Very safe for pedestrians; very intermittent forward travel for vehicles.

I decided to take a photo of each type of vehicle I say. A car and a truck were easy, as were small bikes, big bikes, folding bikes, rental bikes, and delivery bikes. Of course, motorbikes are widely used and, at times, share the same lane as the bicycles. Sometimes they travel among the cars, weaving in and out at will. Very scary stuff. We could not figure out how to tell if the motorbikes were to be in the bicycle lane or in the vehicular lane. And, oh yes, no helmets on bicycles but helmets appear to be mandatory on motorbikes.

Next came scooters … not the ones that are like small motorbikes. I mean scooters where you stand on the platform in between the front and back wheels. Most often there is one person per scooter but we have noted a few occasions when there are two people on a scooter. Some scooters are propelled by foot but most seem to have been motorized in some way and travel just about as quickly as motorbikes along the bike paths. And, last but not least, there are skateboards. Again, travelling in the bike path and reaching great speed on occasion.

Oh, but I did not mention a common construction vehicle that populates the sidewalks. Grocey carts. Construction tools and materials that need to be delivered or moved during business hours are moved in grocery carts.

 Often, trucks are too large to travel along the narrow streets so the necessary materials are placed into a grocery cart and pushed to the destination where they are needed. Another way to achieve the same outcome is to load materials into a large container on the back of a bicycle and then the rider moves them to the appropriate location.

Mail is also delivered this way as well as restaurant food delivery.

After a long while of people and bird watching, our eye fell upon a nearby ice cream shop. It seemed time for a treat. There was a wide selection of flavours, many quite different from what is available at home. Jim ordered a medium dish of apple pie and cinnamon and I ordered a dish with two flavours – blood orange and celery, lime and ginger. The celery flavour ended up being my favourite.

After our ice cream, we headed back to our hotel, now only one block away. Time for us to get ourselves organized to move on tomorrow morning. Jim is at the laundromat doing our wash while I am writing this blog.

Once Jim returns, we will go out for our final dinner in Barcelona, back to El Nationale where we ate on our first night here. That night we had a delicious seafood dinner. Tonight we are going to enjoy tapas and some wine to wash it down. I can only say that the whole experience was wonderful. The food was delicious; the wine was lovely; the company was excellent; the ambience was superb. What fun!!!! 

Barcelona has been an amazing experience. It is filled with beauty and life and art and activity. We would be happy to stay here longer but we are destined to move on by train to the south of Spain.

Buenas noches, Barcelona.