How Life Can Change in an Instant

Friday, March 13, 2020

What a day it has been!! First thing this morning, our friends from Australia arrived at our hotel in Casablanca. It was great to see them all – Barb and John Hurst and Sue and David Morgan. It has been about a year and a half since our paths last crossed. We met in the lobby and proceeded to the hotel restaurant for a coffee and chat.

After the initial hellos, it did not take long for the conversation to turn to Covid-19 Virus and its impact on our worlds. During the time they were in the air, the Australian government put out a notice to avoid all unnecessary international travel. Too little, too late. They were already in transit and now, here we all are.

At the same time, the Canadian government also issued a statement the same message: avoid all unnecessary international travel. To cause further angst among the group, Spain was identified as a hot spot for Covid and all air and sea transportation was cancelled from Morocco to Spain. As all of us were intending to head to Spain at the end of the Moroccan tour, this was particularly unpleasant news.

And all international flights between the USA and Europe (except the UK) have also been discontinued.

So now we wait. Will the tour go ahead as planned? If not, what options do we all have for moving forward? All of us are experienced and smart travellers so we know it will all work out in the end. We will not be ‘trapped’ in Morocco. But the path home is not very clear at the moment.

And, of course, there is always the worry about being exposed to the virus and potentially falling ill. At minimum, it looks as if we will have to self-isolate for 14 days once we get home. If I was going to get the virus, I would much rather be home than in Morocco!

Once we had lamented our situation, Hursts and Morgans went out or a walk and to find a bite to eat. Jim and I stayed at the hotel, continuing our leisure days before the beginning of the tour. Jim did take our laundry to Pressing Rachidi where someone would wash, dry and press our clothes. They can be picked up at noon tomorrow.

As the afternoon wore on, our group gradually reassembled in our room for continued conversation. A plan for dinner was created and we again went our separate ways until it was time to meet in Bloom, the hotel restaurant. Dinner was great, with lots of conversation and laughter but the Aussies were all tired by this time so it was an early night.

Jim and I retired to our room to watch a bit of television (CNN and more COVID-19). Soon it was time to call it a day.

Saturday, March 14, 2020

The day began by sharing breakfast with our friends and discussing a variety of options for moving forward. It is easy to get rattled in this situation but Jim and I decided to wait until our tour meeting tonight before making any decisions about staying or leaving.

We arranged with the concierge at the hotel to book an English speaking driver for us for the afternoon. That was a terrific diversion from all the angst that was being felt by us and others. Our Aussie friends decided to walk the town instead (they clocked 14 km in doing so). So we set off on our own.

Our driver was amazing. He looked at the list of places we wanted to see and then set out on his own tour of the city. In the end, he did take us to each of our choices but we saw so much more in between. The third largest mosque in the world is here and it is both beautiful and impressive. We can see the tower from our hotel room. But up close, it was so much more overwhelming by size and design. Tomorrow we are going on a tour of the interior, one of the few mosques in Morocco that allows non-Muslim people to go inside

We continued along the waterfront and admired that enormous new parks financed by the new King of Morocco. We had also seen that in Tangier. Along with the parks there is a broad range of eateries along the waterfront.

The Atlantic Ocean was dancing before our eyes under a clear blue sky. Next, we travelled through an area of low-cost housing. Units had 3 bedrooms, a lounge and a kitchen. Moroccan families typically have two or three children and often live in this style of apartment. Then we went to a much wealthier section of town. Of course, the contrast was dramatic. The houses we saw were both large and opulent with security guards in front of the ornate gates. And after that, we visited what is known as Beverley Hills, an area of over-the-top homes just like you might find in Beverly Hills, California.

There are many references to the movie, Casablanca, throughout this city. One, in particular, is Rick’s Café, a facsimile of the café in the movie. There was no possibility of going in. Reservations are made months in advance. We had to settle simply to see the outside.

We also drove past the King’s new palace as well as the old one. The old palace has walls built around it and the gates to the city in the walls. We drove through one of the portals and into the medina. Most streets were too narrow to navigate but we did pass through a wonderful fruit and veg market. So colourful. Next came the most fascinating street. Carpenters, car mechanics, welders, seamstresses, shoe repairmen, and many other service people all populated a single street, using small storage sheds for their equipment and materials. If you ever needed anything repaired, this was the place to come.

We stopped for a late lunch at a very local but spotlessly clean restaurant. Three types of tagine were available. Jim chose fish and I chose chicken. We sat outside enjoying the spring air. Beside us was a musician playing a stringed instrument in the same family as a guitar. Occasionally he also sang as he played. It was a delightful addition to a great lunch.

We passed by many parks and squares as we drove through the city to return to our hotel. One square was especially lively with people. The building behind it was the Palace of Justice, a very ornate and imposing building, indeed. This square has been colloquially called Pigeon Square and was it ever obvious why. It would have been impossible to count the pigeons wandering around on the pavement. There was also someone dressed in very peculiar clothing selling water to visitors. He rang a hand bell to draw attention to himself. We did not want any water but we did want a photo. For the price of a small coin, he posed for Jim. What a great photo!

We finally got back to the hotel. Jim went to pick up our clean laundry and I tried to have a rest. But the call of CNN was too great and I got caught up in the COVID story again. I was glad when it was time to go to our tour meeting and learn that it was still going forward with the original itinerary. We also had a chance to chat with the guide about alternative arrangements for me when the group would be on extended walks. He certainly seems to have a plan in mind and I was very happy with his willingness to accommodate.

Dinner followed and then packing to leave this hotel. We have been here for four days. It is beginning to feel like home. And now, here I am writing this blog. More tomorrow as we head out of Casablanca to many new places.

Sunday, March 15, 2020

We boarded our tour bus at 8:30 am and drove a short distance to the Mosque. We crossed the incredibly large courtyard and entered the mosque for a tour. It was an amazing moment, to be in a mosque so highly regarded and so beautifully built … and so large. It was built to accommodate 80,000 people praying together. Immense only begins to describe it. And so quiet. Just entering this space created a moment of wonder, awe and thanksgiving.

We were able to take photos both inside and outside the mosque so I will let some photos describe the building. The intricate tile work was fascinating and beautiful. So much detail and thought.

How life can change on a dime!! When we returned to the bus, our guide informed us that we were not to leave Casablanca until he received more direction from Peregrine Tours. So we all went to a nearby café for a coffee or tea and waited with Mohammed. The news finally came … our tour was being postponed. The King of Morocco had closed the borders and cancelled all international flights as of tomorrow. All tourists were asked to leave the country as quickly as possible. We went straight back to the hotel. You can imagine the scramble of searches online, on phones to find flights out. Of course, most of us came up empty-handed as every tourist in the country was doing the same thing. It was daunting, to say the least.

By dinner time, we had given up the search and began to settle into the idea that we are stuck in Morocco. It could have been a lot worse. We are safe, we are healthy, we are with good friends, and we are staying in a great hotel. Best of all, Jim and I are together. We make quite a team, if I do say so myself. This is not why we came to Morocco but, at least, when this is over we will have survived one of the most surreal travel experiences that we have ever had … and have quite a story to tell.

We have contacted the Canadian Embassy in Rabat to let them know our plight. I am sure they are hearing from thousands of Canadians who may be in the same situation. But, at the moment, we really are at the whim of the King who is trying to protect his people from COVID-19. We would and do expect no less from the government of Canada.

Because we six friends gathered in Morocco to celebrate three 70^th birthdays, we went out for dinner at a seafood restaurant near the port. The meal was delightful, the company even better. When we all sang happy birthday over our desserts, it was joyful because we were together and sharing in friendship and a common experience, no matter how uncommon it really is.

Tomorrow will be a new day and we will hopefully get some direction or insight. In the meantime, it is time for some sleep.

Monday, March 16, 2020

What a day!! It started off with the disappointing news at breakfast that the Australian Ambassador to Afghanistan had been able to book a flight home and was leaving later today. So much for the thin hope that some of his diplomatic influence might help secure a passage for all of us out of Morocco. There were some glum faces around our table. And yet … happy for him and his wife that they had tickets home.

After breakfast the remaining 10 of us from our tour group met with Mohammed, our leader, and made a plan to take the tour bus to various airline offices to see what flights were available. What we were learning was that in Morocco, most business is conducted face-to-face and an online approach is often less successful. I stayed at the hotel but the others went to three airline offices. The first two were closed but Air France was open and selling tickets. There was a lineup out the door and down the street but it was the only option there seemed to be. So, our group joined the line.

After about an hour’s wait, they were at the door. A guard was only allowing a small number in at a time. Jim went in first and came out with two tickets from Casablanca to Paris on that very day. The others followed and soon there were smiles all round. They returned to the hotel; we all packed our bags and we headed to the airport. When we arrived, we were directed to wait in a particular area. There was a long line slowly making its way to the check-in counter. We were confused but ultimately learned that our tickets were actually standby tickets.

We would be able to fly only if there were seats available after boarding was completed. We waited patiently and watched the first flight go. We waited patiently and watched the second flight go. And the third … and the fourth and last flight of the day. Now what??

We called Mohammed who made arrangements for us to stay at a nearby airport hotel. We were to return to the airport again tomorrow at 3 pm.

After we checked in at the hotel, several of us met in the bar to drown our sorrows. We really did not know what to expect. Morosely, we all headed to bed.

Tuesday, March 17, 2020

Happy St. Patrick’s Day. May he bring us some luck today.

We enjoyed a bountiful breakfast and spent some time in the hotel patio area. It was quite beautiful in the grass near the pool when the sun was shining. When cloud cover closed in, we found comfortable seats in the lobby area to chat as we waited.

Another buffet was provided at lunch and then it was time to pack up and leave. The bus took us back to the airport. All commercial flights had been suspended by then and the airport was closed down (except for the rescue flights being provided by Air France). The airport was eerily quiet and vacant and all the shops were closed.

We passed through a security checkpoint and headed to the same area where we had waited for so many hours yesterday. The difference today was that we had actual boarding passes with seat numbers assigned. We were all more hopeful. We had deliberately arrived at the airport several hours early and that paid off in spades. We were very close to the front of the check-in line and were among the first 50 passengers to check our luggage and be directed to the departure lounge. Hurray!!!

One of the criteria for travelling was to provide evidence that you had booked passage out of Paris. Happily, Jim had found a flight for Thursday morning from Paris to Montreal and on to Toronto. We had the proof and we were on the flight.

Of course, the duty free shop was open so we could do a little last minute shopping. As it is illegal to carry dirhams (Moroccan currency) out of the country, it only made sense to spend every last dirham we had. We were successful in that venture!!

We settled into the departure lounge

and contacted Mohammed one last time to let him know that all ten of us were soon boarding a flight and we would not need his services any longer. He had been remarkably helpful with enabling us to find flights. He had been less helpful in encouraging Peregrine Tours to cancel our tour. Even now, the tour has simply been suspended. That my impact our ability to claim anything from it through travel insurance. We also believe that the specific wording means we will get a Peregrine credit rather than a refund. Time will tell but we are feeling disappointed by the manner in which Peregrine has handled this. There was no point in taking that out on Mohammed though. He was merely a guide hired by Peregrine Morocco which is part of the Peregrine Australia umbrella. We will address this issue once we get home.

And so the flight took off about an hour behind schedule. Because it was a rescue flight, the plane was not allowed to leave unless every seat was filled. Some of those with standby tickets got very lucky today and were able to board the flight after those of us with real tickets were in our seats. It was a three hour flight to Paris. There was applause throughout the plane when we took off and there was more applause when we landed. Everyone felt relieved that we were in a large international airport that was still operational in spite of the severity of the Corona Virus in France.

We tried to take the train but finally found a taxi that would take us to our hotel. It was well after midnight. After we checked into the hotel, we sadly said farewell to our Aussie friends. They had arrived on Friday and were flying home on Tuesday morning … a very short and a very expensive trip for all of them. It was definitely not the trip we had planned but we have already had conversations about where and when the next one will take place.

We called our children to let them know we were in Paris and had a flight on Thursday morning. And then we quickly fell into bed. It was 3 am. We had a day in Paris ahead of us with nothing to do. The whole city is shut down.

Wednesday, March 18, 2020

I was sound asleep when I felt Jim’s gentle nudge. I grunted and he asked, “How would you feel about going home today?” “Pardon?” “I found a flight to Toronto that leaves at 11:30 this morning and there are seats available. I can still cancel Thursday’s flight.” It did not take much persuasion for me to leap out of bed, brush my teeth and zip up my suitcase. “Let’s go!!”

Off to the airport we headed. Once there, the check-in machines produced boarding passes and luggage tags. This was really happening. We required some assistance from and Air Canada agent and we met Julia Moraes. She was brilliant in her role as a problem-solver and managed to get me a wheelchair even though the special assistance desk was closed up tight. She walked with us to the security area and made sure we were on our way. We breezed through security and headed to the Air Canada lounge. Using our Mastercards, we are entitled to four visits to lounges each year. But, due to the COVID-19 virus, the lounge was only allowing their own members to have access to the lounge. But guess who arrived on the scene??  Julia!!! She whispered in the agent’s ear and we were immediately given access to the lounge. How good was that!!!

We enjoyed breakfast and a comfortable place to sit until close to boarding time. Then we headed to the gate and waited with the rest of the passengers. We were excited to get going. This flight was direct from Paris to Toronto and it was a day earlier than our previously booked flight with no stop in Montreal.

The flight was extremely smooth. Everyone seemed to be in a great mood as we were all going home. People seated near us, like us, all had a story to tell. There was great camaraderie among the passengers. I had two extended sleeps en route and watched part of a movie. Soon enough we were descending into Toronto. After we touched down, the pilot welcomed us home. Applause abounded and I felt tears of gratitude. Canada is a wonderful country and we are so happy to live here and call ourselves Canadians.

We deboarded 50 at a time (social isolation begins) and Jim and were last off the plane. We whisked through immigration and customs. We were asked about our health and reminded that we were required to engage in a 14 day self-quarantine period.

We will be staying in Toronto in an Air B&B to protect the students who live with us in our home. Karen is gathering things at our house that will provide some activities and focus while we are in Toronto. Iain and Elaine have offered to do our grocery shopping and food delivery as needed during this time. So a new adventure awaits us. We are grateful to our children for their love and caring. And we will travel again!!!

Thanks for travelling with us this time!! And please stay healthy.